CUSTOM CLOTHES BUNDO KANDUANG, WEST SUMATRA, INDONESIA

Preface
At west sumatra,Indonesia there one tribe that called minangkabau. Hidayah (1997: 187) mention that word origin “minangkabau” many the versions, among others come from “menang adu kerbau” (win fight buffalo) then, there version that say that word “minangkabau” come from “manang kabau” (win buffalo); and there also that say to come from “minang kabau” (of a kind sharp weapon that installed in buffalo head). Version other thing say that name origin “minangkabau” not from fight buffalo, but there [are] since long time. That thing looking-glass from the custom house building. Get out of various that version, the tribe is more like to called their region as “ranah minang” and not “ranah kabau”. Temporary, in association tribe person minangkabau with the fellow calleds self as “urang awak” (we person).

Person minangkabau be very unique and special because breed principle them follow differ from another tribe in Indonesia, that is matrilineal. Mean, breed is based in mother line (woman). therefore, woman minangkabau has position and part aloof in tradition growth by the society.

As another tribe society in indonesia, society minangkabau has also clothes (clothing) custom aloof, good to ceremony at individual alive circle (marriage) also another ceremony (custom degree inauguration, like: moslem priest or grandfather (tribe head), sutan1) and bundo kanduang2). Clothing that worn by tribe head, this custom one with another is differ. In this article be discussed to hit clothing from one of [the] tribe head custom at minangkabau, that is bundo kanduang.

Bundo kanduang, among person minangkabau, called as “peti ambon puruk”, that is one who take responsibility to hold the class inherited property. So, a woman that be bundo kanduang will hold important role in the class, so that not all womans be bundo kanduang. Therefore, lifted to be bundo kanduang one who wise and wise, so that can to be protector for the class. And, as a leader, of course has different grandeur clothing from woman usually, because clothing and decoration his wear be symbolic from account to answer it towards son-nephew in a colossal house.

Symbolic meaning that implieds in clothing bundo kanduang :
1. Part clothing on
tengkuluk tanduak or tengkuluk ikek made head casing from cloth balapak. This equipment is its for corneous (pointed) berumai gold or gilt brass. Symbolic meaning from this equipment colossal house property. mean, one who wear it bundo kanduang (owner a colossal house).

2. Part clothing middle
Baju Kuruang with black colour, red, blue, or purple that decorated with gold thread and the side is given minsai have a meaning symbolic, especially minsai-, that is a bundo kanduang and the class must obey custom limits and may not break it. temporary, balapak is wear from right shoulder to left side haves symbolic that a bundo kanduang responsible to continue breed.

3. Part clothing under
Sarong (kodek) balapak embroidered gold haves symbolic policy. mean, a bundo kanduang must can laid a certain in the place, as that allegorized by proverb “mamakan habis-habis, manyuruak hilang-hilang” (eats must be finished, hidden must be not seeing).

4. Decoration
Besides clothes there also several decorations or accesories that used by bundo kanduang. decoration consist of set kaluang (necklace) that consist of nine form kinds, bracelet set and ring also consist of various form. decorations in general made from gold ingredient and nature stone. decoration likes set kaluang and look after with has special difference in comparison with woman decoration in general, because be simbols that contain norms and values that serve the purpose of reference in societal life. so, can be said that decoration that worn by bundo kanduang not only functioned to beautify appearance, but has also certain meaning related to customs and traditions minangkabau. necklace and bracelet only worn at the (time) of carried out where bundo kanduang present with all grandeur as a custom leader. follow several decoration kinds (necklace, bracelet and ring) commonly use by bundo kanduang in carry out custom ceremony :

*dukuah nasura, that is necklace , so this necklace often is called cakiak lihia (cakiak mean “strangle”, while lihia mean “neck”). as according to the name, so whenever that necklace will be worn be seen as if will strangle neck the the user (bundo kanduang). symbolic meaning that implieds in this decoration that alive person must discipline (can apply economical mental attitude).

*dukuah palam made necklace from grout (beads) that comes from sea floor. symbolic meaning that implieds in this necklace that alive is struggle. mean, not only submit but think and make a certain about all god creation for human welfare.

*dukuah pitih (money) dukat, made necklace from gold. this necklace contain symbolic meaning that bundo kanduang is mirror a woman minangkabau that can be protector for the class in endure life.

*dukuah rago, dukuah pinyaram, kaban ketek, kaban manangah and kaban colossal simbol from harmonious islam that must be carried out by everyone minangkabau, especially that profess islamic religion. .

*Galang ula tigo a bracelet look like one of [the] snake formed the end. this bracelet contains symbolic meaning as self good for protects entire nephew (class) bundo kanduang. mean, a bundo kanduang supposed can protect nagari (village) from damage or confusion.

*Galang gadang, look after colossal or called also with look after big custom contains symbolic meaning as pamagar (fence). mean, all actions or task that carried out by bundo kanduang must as according to custom rule and approved by mamak or panghulu. so, look after colossal functioned as reminder bundo kanduang so that always obey custom rules that appointed.

Entire dukuah be wealth simbol a bundo kanduang in custom proverb is said “nak tuah batabua urai”. impliedly a bundo kanduang besides has many treasures, also wise and wise. wisdom and policy which is on the turn can be used to break various class troubleshoot and nagari (village).

Besides necklace and bracelet, ring also belong decoration in completion bundo kanduang. but, ring that used is not defined form and the model (based on taste).

Culture value
Clothing function for somebody not just as body patron from cold weather and sunshine, but has also function other in social structure a society. from clothing that worn by one can known persons involved social status in the society. in society minangkabau for example, custom clothing that worn by tribe head (grandfather and sutan) differ from rank and file, so that person detects according to exactly social status the user. . and so do clothing that worn by bundo kanduang differ from woman majority. clothing that worn by bundo kanduang also not just clothing, but at return it there symbolic meaning loaded with values which is on the turn can be made as reference in life. that values: persistence and resposibility, policy, frugality, hard work, protection, and loyalty.

looking-glass leadership value in head casing symbolic meaning is called tengkuluk tanduak or tengkuluk ikek. this head casing as simbol a leader in colossal house.

persistence value and responsibility looking-glass in symbolic meaning minsai and balapak. minsai simbol that a bundo contain and the class know exactly about custom and may not break it. while, balapak breed router simbol. mean, a bundo contain to responsible to continue breed.

looking-glass policy value in sarong symbolic meaning (kodek) balapak embroidered gold, that is a bundo kanduang must can laid a certain in the place. while, looking-glass frugality value in symbolic meaning dukuah nasura, that is alive person must can apply economical mental attitude.

looking-glass hard work value in symbolic meaning dukuah grout, that is alive may not capitulate (to submit) but must think, make and struggle to get a certain by human welfare.

value looking-glass in symbolic meaning dukuah money dukat, that is bundo contain to be mirror a woman minangkabau that can be protector for the class in endure life.

value religion looking-glass in symbolic meaning: dukuah rago, dukuah pinyaram, kaban ketek, kaban manangah and kaban gadang, harmonious islam that must be carried out by everyone minangkabau, especially that profess islamic religion. .

looking-glass protection value in symbolic meaning looks ula tigo return, that is self good for protect entire nephew (class) bundo kanduang. mean, a bundo kanduang supposed can protect nagari from damage or confusion.

looking-glass loyalty value in symbolic meaning looks colossal, that is as pamagar (fence). mean, all actions or task that carried out by bundo kanduang must as according to custom rule and approved by mamak or panghulu.
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1) sutan degree that given to a man (boy) that accepted at society custom milieu nagari. usually this degree is equiped by the name of degree (not little name), like: sutan pamenan, sutan tanbijo, sutan alamsyah, and as it (hidayat, 1997: 188).

2) bundo kanduang special term that is attributed towards woman class leader in custom order minangkabau. a bundo kanduang traditionally one who responsible to protect and guide society member (the class), belong to increase the class life quality, either through also materials.



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